Mamak – Chatswood

We interrupt normal transmission for a special review. There are few things that can substitute for a really good coffee but in Malaysia and in some parts of Singapore the Indians and Malays have perfected a form of tea called teh tehrik. The literal translation means ‘pulled tea’. The name is given to the technique where the tea gurus transfer tea from one jug to another to cool the tea down along with forming a thick froth at the top. It’s quite the spectacle to see flowing hot tea seemingly defy gravity as they move from one vessel to another. The result is a frothy, creamy tea that is perfect accompaniment to goreng pisang(banana fritters) in the afternoon or an early morning roti canai with curry.
I am at Mamak in Chatswood. Mamak is a 1 hatted restaurant that pays homage to Malaysian street food. Since their humble beginnings at Friday night markets in Chinatown to their blockbuster restaurant in Chinatown with long lines at both lunch and dinner to rather more spacious restaurant here in Chatswood the Mamak juggernaut continues.
Their teh tehrik rendition is quite true to the original you would find in Malaysia. It’s frothy and lollipop sweet. Unlike normal milk teas, teh tehrik is made with condensed milk, with the milk adding a viscosity to the drink, and allowing for a frothy top. Mamak’s teh doesn’t quite deliver the punch of the great teh tehriks I have had in the street stalls in Malaysia but it is a good substitute when the best teh tahrik is 6000km and a $1000 air ticket away.

One particular item on the menu that captures the imagination of diners and I think is the signature item of Mamak, is the roti canai. At Chinatown Mamak, there’s a sense of theatre as the roti canai maker rolls and twirls the dough, showing of its elasticity and malleability. I can quite safely say that in 25 years searching for good roti canai in Australia, Mamak’s roti canai is the most authentic roti canai you will find. Each roti canai is delivered on silver tray with spicy dahl and curry sauce, along with spicy kick of chilli sambal. The roti canai has a crispy exterior yet is soft and stretchy inside. For $5 you only get one roti, but is the perfect starter to the Mamak experience.I try the wife’s Mee Goreng, which is spicy, sweet and tangy; a veritable disco of flavours in your mouth. It is delicious, and perhaps the Mee Goreng here, is a notch above the Mee Goreng in the original Chinatown store. I get that fried lard or pork flavour which is just perfect with all the other flavours.

I find the Chatswood store much more relaxing and comfortable. The Mamak team has thought out the layout really well and while it can get quite loud, it’s not uncomfortably so. I particularly am impressed, that Mamak has chosen to stay true to its roots, of quick service, sublime tasting street food, and very reasonable prices. For 2 dishes, a tea and ice kacang, our bill came up to $30. Fantastic value!

Recommendation : Everyone must try teh tehrik with roti canai once in their life, and if in Sydney, Mamak is the only choice!